Rashada Aghalarova
As a solo traveller from Azerbaijan, I hold a one-year tourist visa and have had the incredible opportunity to explore various regions of India. My journeys have been largely enjoyable, but one experience stands out as particularly unique: visiting the residence of Shafqat Sheikh, nestled in the picturesque hilly terrain of Bunjwah in the Kishtwar district of Jammu and Kashmir.
I started my journey to Bunjwah from Jammu Bus Stand, catching one of the early morning buses definitely the best way to go. The ride to Thathri cost 300 rupees, and honestly, the road itself was the highlight absolutely fascinating and mind-blowing views all the way.
Once I reached, my host Shafqat had already arranged everything. He spoke to the Bus Conductor, and they dropped me at the right spot. From there, his driver picked me up and took me to his home.
Their hospitality was truly heartwarming. A beautiful, authentic house with a traditional fire kitchen, delicious homemade food prepared by his mother, and such a warm family atmosphere. I loved spending time with them, especially playing with their adorable daughter.
Shafqat speaks great English and was so passionate about sharing his culture. I learned so much about Kashmiri life through our conversations.
Experiences like this make the journey unforgettable.
I stayed at their home for four days. Shafqat is truly someone who understands hospitality and, at the same time, deeply cares about his community.
Together, we visited a place called Devigol, a beautiful spot where Islam and Hinduism meet in harmony. Around the village, there are several viewpoints where the entire village lies beneath your feet, absolutely breathtaking. He personally took me to these places and showed me everything.
By the way, Shafqat was always the one driving. Despite the dangerous mountain roads, he drove very carefully and responsibly, which made me feel safe the entire time.
After visiting the viewpoints, I told him I wanted to see the village mosque. He introduced me to two mosques in the village. Since there were no separate spaces for women, I needed special permission and I’m very grateful that he arranged this for me so I could experience it.
Everywhere I went in the village, people were incredibly kind and welcoming. So many of them even invited me into their homes. I’m truly thankful to every one of them.
One of my favourite moments was when Shafqat took me to the village school. I had the chance to deliver a speech to the students, encouraging them to value their education and keep learning. Meeting the youth of the village was something very special for me.
I’m grateful because he showed me almost everything I had hoped to experience.
I will truly miss our early mornings, drinking traditional namkeen tea together. I want to express my deep thanks to him and his family for everything they did for me. He gave me a very cosy, traditionally decorated private room, which made my stay even more special.
Honestly, if it wasn’t for him, this journey wouldn’t have been this smooth and comfortable.
My journey back from Bunjwah village didn’t go as planned, but maybe that’s what made it so special!
A landslide blocked the only mountain road. Nature reminded us who’s really in charge here. But the kindness of people was even stronger. Villagers carried my suitcase across the landslide so I could continue.
One kilometre on foot, then a bus, then more helping hands, even the students I met at a local school helped me carry my luggage. I reached the Nashri tunnel, and from there the police helped me find the next bus. They even carried my suitcase too.
Eventually, I made it to Banihal and took that incredible railway train to Srinagar. For 2 hours, I just stared out the window, thinking: this journey was hard, but unbelievably beautiful.
Meanwhile, my host Shafqat kept texting me the whole way: “Where are you? Are you safe?” That kind of care is rare.
“Kashmir, You are not just a place. You are the people”
Author is a foreign solo traveller from Azerbaijan, and can be contacted on rashadatravelling.
